GQ Deep Roots

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Thursday, 20th June 2024

What does an Orlando Pirates midfielder and a serving of boerewors, umfino and chakalaka have in common?


How about a clue? They're both in the heart of something and those something's are to be found within a place now known as GQ (for short).

Ever heard the name Azola Matrose? If you're a supporter of one of South Africa's premier soccer (err… football) teams, Orlando Pirates, then you'll know he's a young lad who originates from Walmer Township (aka Gqebera). And a fantastic mural depicting him and another local hero, Nomnikelo "Nicky" Veto (a South African 2021 Olympic hockey player) can be found in the heart of one of South Africa's oldest townships. Their mural is amongst ten other that has been done as a collaboration between local artists brought together by Banele Loyiso, and the Masifunde Learner Development centre, an NPO working to uplift the community (see https://www.facebook.com/share/p/ifeNYMXXeXZf9Qrw/)

How do you get to see them? It's an initiative of local tour company Awehness and part of their Deep-Roots Tour package (see https://awehness.org/tours/aweh-township-tour/) which will introduce you to the murals and to other local craftsman. The tour will give you deep root's insights to other local individual's extraordinaire such as Nozipho "Fish" Bell (the woman's boxing Featherweight World Champion), and Moki Cekisani (a legendary environmental activist and recipient of the Order of Luthuli, awarded to him by President Cyril Ramaphosa in 2023).

The tour begins with an overview of Walmer township, one of South Africa's oldest settlements, and covers its development, and how a story of hope was born in the heart of Gqeberha (aka Port Elizabeth). Walmer township, also known locally as Gqebera (GQ with an "r", not to be confused with GQ with an "rh"), is steeped in black culture and history. This rich and inspiring history is displayed in the Uhambo Project:Ten Artworks – Countless Stories murals mentioned above and adorns the walls and buildings throughout the township. The tour will take you to see the murals, honouring local residents who have left an indelible footprint on this community with their own individual struggles – inspiring stories of possibility and hope.

The tour itself is centred around Masifunde's hub, which seeks to model and amplify the collaborative efforts and learnings happening at the centre, through its focus on sustainability. It's set up as a vocational centre that trains jewellery crafters, artists, baristas and chefs. And includes the likes of Izandla Zethu ("our hands"), a jewellery initiative that uses various recycled metals to create handmade jewellery. The coffee shop, MyMito – feed your mitochondria the stuff you deserve - is another one of their on-site social enterprises that seeks to use the kitchen/restaurant to generate a sustainable income from social impact projects in disadvantaged communities. As part of the tour, clients enjoy a delicious traditional lunch and possibly the best cappuccino in town.

Speaking of food, you may be wondering how the Deep Roots Tour connects with boerewors and a side dish of a spinach variant ("umfino")? GQ (c'mon try pronounce the full word) has another outstanding cultural experience in the heart of its coastal thicket forest, just some 10 minutes away from the Masifunde hub, at the Boma (see https://www.peboma.co.za). Here, under the cover of the endemic milkwoods, Chef Annalize will take you through her boerewors (loosely translated as "farmer sausage", but like no other sausage you've ever tasted) offering and several other locally inspired dishes. Each menu item has a story to it and is rooted in the flavours and traditions of GQ and the Eastern Cape. Can you imagine what's in a Bunny Chow – NO, it's not the descendant of the Easter Bunny – you'll have to visit and let Chef Annalize introduce you to her culinary expertise.

The Boma is an easy place to lose yourself in, and many a story has been told (and made) under the shade of the milkwoods. It's an outstanding venue for meetings and weddings, and noting all the questions we've asked you in this blog, it's THE place to celebrate an affirmative answer to the popping of THE question.

But there's another connection too, to the two. Gqeberha (tongue against the top of your pallet and "click", followed by "bear", with a guttural "gah" to round it off) is both the city of convergence and contrasts, a place of deep roots, and creative grit. And this year, both the Boma and Awehness are finalists in their respective categories at the inaugural Nelson Mandela Bay Tourism Awards (see https://www.facebook.com/share/p/EWG1Kb6QQgk5HnXd/) happening on the 11 September, 2024. The NMB Tourism Awards is an excellent showcase of what this place, that many call the "best little city in the world", has to offer.

When you tour GQ (got it yet?), it's always a tour with a difference. You will meet real artists and artisans at work in both typical and non-typical South African urban settings. You will be introduced to places of hope, where a better future is being forged from the ground up through the collaborative efforts of South Africa's emerging creatives. There isn't a better way to experience first-hand the energy and resilience of what makes South Africa a special place.